Place du Tertre - The Artists of Montmartre

The Place du Tertre, otherwise known as the artists square, is found on the hill in Montmartre, just behind the Sacré Coeur cathedral. It has a rich and storied history that dates back to the Middle Ages. Originally, the area of Montmartre was a tiny village on the outskirts of Paris.

During the 19th century, the Place du Tertre became a gathering place for artists. Famous artists such as Picasso, Van Gogh, and Toulouse-Lautrec frequented the area due to its cheap rent and even cheaper wine. This area was exempt from the Paris wine tax. An artistic community formed along side cabaret culture (see the Moulin Rouge).

There is a limited number of painters allowed to set up their easels on the square. Each of them had to undergo a rigorous portfolio approval review process through a jury system to become an “artist in residence.” The wait time for these residences can be up to ten years. Around 140 licensed artists work in the square. The artists are allowed one square meter per person. Take your time to choose your artist. Expect hyperrealistic pencil drawings, classical caricatures, charcoal drawings, and watercolour paintings. Expect to pay between €25 to €120. Be sure to set the price before you sit down and be prepared to pay in cash. Depending on the type of painting you choose, expect to sit anywhere between 10 minutes and one hour. There are no opening or closing times at the square but the artists usually begin arriving around 10 am and leave at sunset. If it’s raining, save this adventure for another day.

Two things can be true at the same time at the Place du Tertre. Yes, it is “touristy”. But yes, these are real artists. And what better memory of your trip to Paris than a portrait of yourself in Paris by a true French artist!